Manaslu Circuit with Tsum Valley Trek—20 days

Our exciting journey will begin with an early drive along the banks of the Trishuli River as we leave behind the bustling city of temples and enter a much calmer area. The bus ride is especially beautiful as you get to observe the local people out and about on the terraced fields and river. Stopping every once in a while for a break where you can have lunch, go to the washroom, and stretch your legs before eventually carrying on the ride. 

The longer the ride, the more you are taken away from crowded areas to a place with fewer people and even fewer settlements. After hours of driving, you will arrive at Arughat, which marks the entrance point for the Manaslu and Tsum Valley Trek. But we will further travel to Machhakhola via Soti Khola. The last bit of the road is unpaved, so be ready for a bumpy ride till you reach Machhakhola, where we will rest for the night at one of the beautiful teahouses.

While we did travel the day before, our official trek starts today. So, pack up your bags and lace up your boots, as we will be using our sturdy legs today. A hearty breakfast early in the morning and we will finally begin our trek. The trail is an uphill battle (literally) at times but the gorgeous landscapes and scenery will make every uphill step worth it. Following the trail along the banks of the Budhi Gandaki River and crossing multiple suspension bridges, we will finally stop at a quaint settlement where we will have lunch. 

The traditional villages under the beautiful backdrop of deep green forest hills are truly a sight to behold. Along the way we will also encounter a hot spring at a place called Tatopani, where you can take a dip if you please and then continue on with our journey. Crossing a few more suspension bridges and a cantilever bridge, we will finally arrive at our final destination of the day, Jagat. It is the entry point of the Manaslu Conservation Area, where we will get our permits at the checkpoint. Then we will check into a local teahouse and rest for the night.

Our goal today is to reach Lokpa village. Beginning with our usual morning routine, which is an early, hearty breakfast, we once again march our feet on the rugged trails. Passing the shimmering waterfall and the viewpoint of a small village, Salleri, we can observe and enjoy the cows grazing in the fields and local people out and about doing their chores, from planting crops to making handicrafts like baskets to doing their laundry. It is a sight that one can find pretty calming. 

The views of ethereal mountains such as Shringi Himal and other beautiful peaks that act as the guard of our future destination, Tsum Valley. You can also see the Kutang and Nurbi regions on the border of Tibet, to the west of Shringi Himal. After a breathtaking journey, both figuratively and literally, we reach the small town of Philim. And the trail after this is crucial, as after two hours of hiking from Philim, the trail branches out, separating Manaslu Circuit and Tsum Valley. 

Along the way to Lokpa, the beautiful Nyak Himal can be seen as some monkeys might stare at you from the top of trees, watching you climb up the hill to the teahouse you will be checking into. Upon reaching the teahouse, you will notice the divine beauty of the location with the snowy peaks of Ganesh II’s outlier peaks, Tewa and Lumbo Himal. And before you know it, the night has fallen and you are on your way to sleep after a warm and filling dinner.

The trail today is particularly challenging and calls for maximum effort both physically and mentally. The trails are a bit rougher and steeper, passing along some landslide areas with routes that go up and down. The trail after Lokpa starts with a soft descent into the dense forest before crossing the bridge of the Sardi Khola. After which you will be walking along the route of the Siyar Khola. 

The trail leads to some up-and-downhill paths accompanied by wide-winged vultures and Himalayan Griffons right above your head. The high cliffs have pretty waterfalls cascading down and after a series of zigzagged trails without much to see, a clearance finally opens up, with the spectacular vistas of the southeast ridges of the Shringi Himal. 

The trodden path continues as you arrive at Gumlung, crossing a rustic bridge, where a signpost sits notifying you that it will further take 45 minutes to reach Chumling. The path, as usual, takes an uphill route but offers stunning vistas of the landscapes surrounding you. And after what feels like more than 45 minutes, which it probably is, you will finally arrive at your destination, Chumling. 

After a gruesome hike of hours on end, the village of Chumling offers the view of a beautifully seated feathery snow on a part of Ganesh Himal II and the northwest ridge of the Lumbo Himal sitting high above. Enjoy a mystical sunset painting the white snow in the shades of reds and oranges before calling it a day.

The morning welcomes you with a fiery view of the sun-kissed mountains of Ganesh Himal II and maybe a sneak peek of Ganesh Himal I. The entire range of Ganesh Himal is what makes this trek even more special. Keep your body active and energized, as today is another uphill trek. It is challenging and unrelenting with the increase in altitude, but your perseverance is the key to success. The harder the journey, the sweeter the success. 

Crossing the bridge from Chumling, the trail first descends with green trees and prayer wheels spun with the force of the river water of Siyar Khola. Then arrive at the flat trail, which will be a short relief before arriving at the village of Tanju, with a small monastery with a prayer wheel. Continuing on the adventurous trail, you will be able to see some langurs (monkeys) hanging around jostling the tree branches. Crossing a particularly hazardous zone through a narrow path, you will arrive at Dumje. 

It Offers a tantalizing view of the Buddha Peak, walking along the side valley of Sarphu Khola with the view of the eastern face of Shringi Himal and the Syakpa Glacier. Then a steep climb of about half an hour, reaching the small hamlet of Gho. The Gho Village is rustic and has a small, unusual-looking shrine. Then the hike continues, which is an uphill push, passing a few chortens on the way, and then finally arriving at Chhokang Paro. 

Known to be connected to Tibetan Buddhism, the village of Chhokang Paro has more chortens than it has people. The village also has displays of known Buddhist icons like Chenresig, Guru Rinpoche, Vajrapani, Yamantaka, a Green Tara, and a White Tara. It is known to be the administrative headquarters of the Tsum region, even if the settlement is quite small. The village is also known as Chhakampar, with a majestic view of Churke Himal!

Today’s route offers a little bit of relief with fewer uphill and downhill climbs. The journey all the way up to Nile will be a very interesting one, as you will get to encounter many small villages, chortens, mani walls, and stunning landscapes with spectacular mountain views. After leaving Chhokang Paro, we  will ascend a small hill and then reach Dzong village. 

Afterwards, we will encounter at least 22 chortens along the way to Kaye, where there is a small school. Then up to a twin village known as Ngakyu-Leru, which has closely packed houses and neatly stacked walls with many prayers. Crossing the apple orchard and maybe even taking a bite of one or two, then we cross the Siyar River to Rachen Gumba and then Lamagaon. 

Leaving Lamagaon behind, we will come to a settlement of Burji. Here you can find the famous Milarepa’s Cave, known as Piren Phu. And a few more villages in those houses have many chortens and small monasteries, and you will arrive at Chule, from where the Nile Village is about 45 minutes away. Then, following the steep path, you will finally arrive at Nile Village.

It's an extraordinary day ahead as we get ready for acclimatization with a hearty early morning breakfast. The trail won’t be as generous today so it is an uphill trek till we reach Mu Gumba. There are a lot of yak encounters on the trail, some coming back from Tibet and some going up for grazing. And if it is late spring, you will find many ascending to pick Yarsagumba. 

And as you hike further, the views of the mountains become clearer. Ganesh Himal II, enticing as ever, with other extensive glaciers. Then continuing uphill, a signboard makes its presence known, welcoming you to the Mu Gumba and opening a path leading you inside the monastery. Being one of the larger complexes of Tsum, Mu Gumba is also the highest monastery in the region at 3700 meters and was established in 1895. The monastery stores many ancient books containing knowledge of Buddhism and even has life-size statues of different Buddhist icons. 

The monks are the ones who look after the monastery and provide food and accommodation for those who wish to stay there overnight. It is even less luxurious than the basic teahouses on the route, so a lot of things are needed for compromise. The views from Mu Gumba are enchanting, with panoramic snow-capped mountains. 

From here, we take the route that leads us to Rachen Gumba, another significant monastery of the Tsum Valley. There is also a primary school en route; crossing the village of Lar, Rachen Gumba finally arrives. The Gumba sits at 3240 meters but the journey is yet to come to an end for the day. After an adventurous exploration of the monastery, we return back to Chhokang Paro via Jhong.

Accommodation: Tea House or Lodge

Distance: 8-10 km

Time:  7-8 hours

Altitude: 3,700m (12,139 ft)

It is the ninth day and much of the Tsum Valley has been explored, so the only thing that is left is to make our way down. We will follow the same exact route while exploring the places we could have possibly missed when ascending. The trails are steep so being extra careful is a must. 

The trail leads on as we reach a bridge crossing over the Sarphu Khola, and after making rounds of a small Gumba, the village of Domje finally makes its appearance. The Gumba holds spiritual power as it holds a picture of Guru Rinpoche. There is also a separate trail that leads to the Gumba of Lungdang and Ganesh Himal North Base Camp. But we head towards Chumling village, and the trail becomes relatively easier to walk on. 

We begin our trek of the day with a filling breakfast. Descending from Chumling, we retrace our steps as well as our memories. The Sayar Khola and the dramatic cliffs just above it still feel breathtaking even after seeing them before. Then, crossing the Sardi Khola bridge, soon enough, Lokpa village arrives. After some hours of trekking, we will finally touch the Budhi Gandaki river path again and cross a bridge, making our way to Deng.

After a long trek of hours the days before, it is better to slow down the momentum and let your body get some rest. The reverberating flow of the Budhi Gandaki River acts as an alarm, waking you up for yet another day of adventure. The trail is mostly uphill, which you will definitely feel on your legs, but after a little push, you will arrive at Bihi Phedi. Then continuing on the zigzag route with small houses scattered here and there as well as many walls decorated with inscribed prayers. 

Crossing Serang Gumba along with the views of the Dwijen Himal, right to the west of Shringi Himal, the reverberating sound of the flowing Budhi Gandaki River seems so far away. Passing through small chortens with prayer wheels and mud houses, we once again cross over the mighty Budhi Gandaki River. Then soon enough, the tranquil village of Ghap arrives. 

Following the pathway along the Budhi Gandaki River, through the deep pine forest, the views today will be simply stunning. It is a long day of hike ahead so prepare enough water and snacks for the way. The first settlement to arrive after leaving Ghap is the village of Namrung. The peak of Kutang Himal greets you as you make your way through the rhododendron and pine forest, which will be in full bloom during the spring season. 

The village shows the connection of Buddhism with its people, as the spiritual energy can be felt through many mediums, including nature itself. The Ganesh Himal once again makes its reappearance in the far east as we hike to Lihi Village, otherwise known as Ligaon. And just over an hour from Lihi village is Sho village, complete with rustic houses and small chortens and Gumbas. The gumbas have some intricate paintings showcasing teachings of Buddhism along with Milarepa. 

After an hour and a half, Lho village finally arrives with its own special views of the Sauli Peak, Kutung Himal, and, of course, the mighty Mount Manaslu. The Lho village houses Ribang Gumba along with some chortens and mani walls, which look impressive no matter how many you see along this trail. Along with mani walls, chortens, and prayer flags, this village gives you the most unparalleled views of Mount Manaslu, Manaslu North, and Naike Peak. The sunset glow is unlike anything you will have ever seen.

It is a short hike today compared to the prior days; reaching Samagaon will be much more pleasant. With the glacial rivers from Pungen Valley, it makes its presence known with the reverberating sounds that ring in our ears. Watch out for the yak trains that are on the trail carrying anything and everything up and down the mountains. There is a hydropower plant that most likely powers multiple houses on the route. As you trek on, the sharp ridges of Nagdi Chuli can be seen as you pass through chortens. There is also a monastery, fifteen minutes away from the main one, which offers a beautiful view of Manaslu. It is an option you can entertain at that time, depending on if you are willing to hike extra. 

After crossing several bridges and a rigorous climb up a steep hill, you will finally arrive at Shyala. Shyala is a beautiful village offering breathtaking views of the Nagdi Chuli, whose ridges stretch towards Mount Manaslu. Continuing on, we will come across a diversion trail that leads to the Pungen Gumba (a tryst for the next day) and head towards the final destination of the day, Samagaon. 

Also known as Ryo village, it has a school and stone walls making a perimeter over their fields. The village showcases an enclosed area full of mani walls, intricate paintings, and a series of statues of Buddhist icons, including Guru Rinpoche. After checking into a humble teahouse, it is best to let your body rest and the following day brings even more adventure to the journey.

An acclimatization day to prepare our bodies for the days ahead, as there will be a significant gain in elevation. And what better way to acclimate than by visiting some of the oldest monasteries with links to powerful Buddhist deities? A light backpack with a packed lunch and plenty of water should do the trick for this hike. 

Walking alongside the Pungen Glacial River, the icy wind from the mountains bites your cheeks and nose so make sure to cover up with cozy layers. The trail is loose and narrow, which requires one to be extra careful as the path ascends. The impressive ridges of Simnang Himal, Nagdi Chuli, and Kutang Himal make their appearance en route. 

Passing a few chortens with prayer flags draped around them and fluttering, we come across Pungen Tal, or Green Lake, and Pungen Glacier, a massive rubble of rocks and ice. After two and a half hours of climbing from Samagaon, the picturesque Pungen Gumba finally arrives. You can see the monks taking care of the monastery, performing their duties with their simple way of living. There is nothing extravagant about it all, but simplicity is happiness. After spending some time exploring the area, clicking pictures, recording videos, and interacting with the monks, we will eventually make our way back to Samagaon. 

And as stated before, channeling your focus on giving your body a proper rest is very crucial for the coming days. Eat good food, hydrate, and have a good sleep for the remainder of the day. 

Note: The alternative option for this day can also be a trek to the Manaslu Base Camp. But this requires a lot of time and energy to accomplish. The trek up to the base camp itself can take around 7 hours, which is a lot of strain on the body. You can discuss with your guide and make plans as you go. It is recommended to add an extra day for rest if you plan on taking on the Manaslu Base Camp hike, as it will be very taxing on the body and can impact your performance for the coming days of the trek.

Visiting the Samagaon Monastery can be an option before leaving, as the views it presents of Mount Manaslu and its glacier make it worth the extra effort. We leave Samagaon behind after we have a hearty breakfast but we will make another detour before reaching Samdo. 

The trails are not as steep as prior days and can even be considered flat to some extent. To the west of the main trail is what is known as “the hidden lake,” otherwise known as Birendra Tal. The pristine glacial lake offers unmatched views and ice and rocks falling from the top into the lake create a thunderous echo. 

Then we get back on track with our journey to Samdo village. Small shrubby bushes of rhododendron accompany you on the way. Crossing wooden bridges above the reverberating Budhi Gandaki and passing the mani walls inscribed with prayer mantras, making it down the valley where suddenly the view of Himalchuli stuns you with its beauty. 

And after what seems like hours of trek, which it is, you will reach Samdo Village. Established in the 1950s, the Samdo village is dominated by the Tibetan immigrants from the Ro region of Tibet. With a handful of lodges at your disposal, check into one, and you can spend the remainder of the daylight exploring the area, talking to the locals, or visiting the nearby monastery. 

Accommodation: Tea House or Lodge

Distance: 8.2 km

Time:  3-5 hours

Altitude: (3,875 m / 12,713 ft)

We’re not only touching the 4000-meter mark, we’re crossing it. Leaving Samdo after a hearty breakfast, we set our pace slow but steady. As usual, we walk alongside the thunderous echo of the Budhi Gandaki river and it is almost melancholy because it is the last time as we head towards the west of the trail. Our feet march right into the ancient village of Larkya Bazaar, where trade actions used to take place between Tibet and Nepal. 

An ascent that leaves you breathless but so are the views that surround you as the trek drags on before arriving at the Dharmashala, also known as Larkya Phedi. The acclimatization day spent a few days prior definitely aids your breathing control. The absolutely eye-catching views of Pang Phuchi, the north side of Naike, and Manaslu North can be seen in their glory. At high elevation, the facilities are very basic, so make the most of what is available.

A big day ahead starts with waking up early. Earlier than usual, which is 3 am. It is absolutely necessary to begin during this hour, as the later you start, the harder it will be to cross Larkya La. You should depart by 4-4:30 am. With your trusty headlamp, you begin your hike. There’s not much to see during these hours, really, so your pace will be a bit faster than usual. 

The rocky trails and icy morning weather are definitely an experience exclusive to Larkya La Pass. The trek is rigorous on both mind and body but once you reach the top, there is nothing more satisfying than the absolute tear jerking panoramic views it has to offer. The mountains appear in a great arc with stunning valleys at the base. The mountains like Kang Guru, Chombi, Nemjung, Himlung, Larkya Peak, and even the ones on the Tibetan side can be seen. After spending some time at the top, it is wise to make your way down to avoid the icy, high-velocity mountain winds. 

We make a descent to Bhimtang. And after spending time in teahouses with very minimal facilities, Bhimtang suddenly seems luxurious.

Now that the most challenging parts of the trek are over, all that’s left to do is descend down. And after such a gruesome trek the day before, the sleep during the night will be particularly sweeter. The early morning welcomes you with the sensational views of the mountains as you fill your stomach with delicious breakfast. After which we will begin our hike back. 

From Bhimtang, we will pass through the villages of Hampuk, Yak Kharka, and Surki, passing through the open glades and meeting the banks of Dudh Khola and then the Surki Khola. Continuing forward, we will reach Gho village, where you can see many ponies and horses grazing about in the field, and as much as we want to stay and enjoy it, we still have to trek on. 

And after hiking down for hours, we finally make our last stop at Tilje Village. The Tilje village offers unique, architecturally designed homes made of wood and stone and also diverse communities with multiple ethnicities. We will stay here for the night, enjoying all the natural and cultural beauties this village has to offer.

Today we leave the trails of Manaslu behind and join the popular trail of the Annapurna Circuit. And after such tiring eighteen days of trekking, another circuit trek probably doesn’t sound too appealing. So, we make our way from Tilje straight to Dharapani. After walking about 6-7 hours on a regular basis, less than a four-hour walk to Dharapani almost sounds too good to be true. But alas, here we are at Dharapani, where we will board a jeep right back to Besisahar. 

Arriving at Besisahar almost feels like a dream, as the houses are modern with all the facilities that almost became unfamiliar on the trails of Manaslu and Tsum. Thick mattress, hot shower, clean clothes, laundry, and so on. Spend the remaining time exploring different food spots, finally giving in to all the cravings you’d been having, as we will leave for the capital the next day.

Good morning, the trek of the Manaslu Circuit with Tsum Valley has finally concluded and now all that’s left to do is get on a bumpy ride back to Kathmandu City. The past nineteen days will definitely be tattooed on your memory forever. Leaving nothing but our footprints, our adventurous journey finally comes to an end. You will be dropped off at your hotel in Thamel, and we sincerely hope this trek was one of your best experiences and wish to be of service to your future endeavors in Nepal as well.